Question by Justin M: My dog will not voluntarily go in his crate?
We got our little guy about a year ago when he was about 3 months old, he is now 1 year 3 months, neutered at 6 months. He is a Shih Tzu/Maltese mix; he has characteristics of both breeds. He weighs about 10 lbs. and has a huge personality, I mean HUGE personality. He communicates with us incredibly well, we can basically read his every thought; very intelligent! We got his crate the very night we got him. Within a month we started him on professional puppy training for a month. He absolutely refuses to voluntarily go in his crate whenever we go out or when it's bedtime. After we first got him he figured out things we do which tells him he's going in his crate, i.e. putting on our shoes, locking the back door, saying the words "crate" or "nite nite", he will just go limp and submissively lie on his back, or go and hide under a chair, or in a corner. We were taught to feed him in his crate, for potty reasons
And he has absolutely no problems going in his crate to eat, and sometimes he just goes in there to hang out and play with a toy. He did excellent with potty training, no accidents since he was 4 months old. So I'm assuming he is not scared of being in his crate. We tried all the professional tricks, and obviously they didn't work, not one single time. Does he have separation anxiety? What can we do to try and change this behavior? I know it's very minuscule, but other than that he is such a well behaved dog, we just want to break the habit to put the icing on the cake.
Best answer:
Answer by Julia B
Try to give him a lot of good treats every time he goes in and have an excited voice at first. Both my boxers run into their crates as soon as they see me grab the treats, but it takes a few weeks to get them used to it.
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Try to make your arrivals and departures very boring and low-key. Don’t make a big fuss over saying hello and goodbye. Be very casual and up-beat.
Try to make interactions with your dog on your terms, not his. You pet him, treat him, or play with him when you want, and not when he asks for it.
Get your dog used to your getting-ready-to-leave cues, like picking up keys and jacket. Go through these actions repeatedly during the time when you’re staying home, without actually leaving. If your dog has already learned to associate his fears with your departure cues, it will take a lot of repetitions before the dog will get it.
Give your dog more exercise. A tired dog is a good dog! A dog can sleep most of the day if he’s tired enough. Most young dogs could use 20-100 minutes of full-speed running per day. Increase your dog’s exercise. Don’t forget mental exercise, like training, exploring new places, encountering new smells, and social interaction with other dogs. Taking your dog to a park where he can run and play with others may be crucial. (Find dog parks around San Jose here.)
Give your dog something to do while you’re gone! What does your dog do all day- wait around for you to come home? Give your dog a hobby. Jean Donaldson calls the solution to a lot of dog problems “work-to-eat” programs. Stuff a Kong or a hollow prepared bone, fill up a Buster Cube or Roll-A-Treat, scatter the dog’s food in the grass or hide several chew treats around the house (see the Merchandise page for a description of some of these items). A dog that is working for goodies is not barking or chewing, and a dog that is eating is not as stressed!
Don’t draw attention to forbidden objects just before leaving – in other words, don’t straighten up or point out the items that you don’t want the dog to chew. Your dog might misinterpret your attention and give those objects his attention just because of it. In a similar way, punishing your dog afterwards for destruction he’s done will probably not help – it will not reduce your dog’s anxiety, show him a better way to deal with it, or give him an alternative behavior. He might not even connect the punishment with the action he did to cause the destruction. (Don’t confuse a dog’s “appeasement display”, developed to stop threats of aggression, with a “guilty look” that implies a promise that your dog won’t do it again. See the Body Language pages for more information.)
Consider crating your dog. Some dogs are more comfortable when confined to a small “den”. Make sure your dog can “hold it” for as long as you need him to, and provide plenty of exercise so that his main activity in the crate is sleeping. You might just want to consider leaving your dog in one room (rather than giving him the run of the house), and maybe leaving a radio on and an article of clothing that smells like you in the next room. Warning: Some dogs are a lot less comfortable confined to a crate when alone. Make sure your dog is comfortable and secure.
Consider taking your dog to doggie daycare or to a friend’s house (or to work or on errands with you), so that he is not actually alone, while you train your dog to deal with being alone. Remember, dogs are pack animals that want to be with others; being a “lone wolf” can be dangerous in the wild, as well as lonely. Note that for many dogs who have bonded strongly with people, having another dog (or other pet) around will not be sufficient.
If you have serious separation anxiety…
Serious separation anxiety is indicated by a dog who does major property damage (chews holes through walls), injures himself in his anxiety (scratches or rubs paws or nose raw in digging or chewing), or stresses himself to the point of exhaustion during your absence. While stop-gap measures, like keeping the dog with you or with another person, will help while you train, you will need to spend a lot of time teaching this type of dog that he can survive being alone.
Start by making sure your dog is getting enough exercise, including mental exercise (usually satisfied with some training and the chance to interact with other dogs or explore new places). Before you can retrain your dog (and it may take weeks or longer), arrange for the dog to not be alone – get a pet sitter, join a doggy daycare, or leave your dog with a friend who’s home all day.
Since he obviously does not have anything against the crate itself, it has to be the fact that you are leaving him.
he should realize that its not working so he wont try it anymore. He will know that this is the way it works and just let it go.
The same thing for going nite nite. You are leaving him.
Some dogs can not stand it when their human leaves.
When he goes limp and rolls on his back, do you pet him? Do you walk towards him and talk to him in a reassuring way?
If you do, and believe me if I would see mine do it I would cry with him, then he knows this is a tool for you do give him just a bit more attention.
When you leave him, ignore his cute submissive moves, he is tricking you. It will be really hard but you absolutely ignore the behavior.
After a while, depending on how stubborn he is
As soon as mine sees me putting on my shoes and its not for a walk, he goes in his crate by himself and sit there waiting for me to shut the door.
try putting treats in the kennel make the dog think it is a good thing tell it the words you want to use show it the treat then put treat in kennel keep doing this till it understand